I have attended Egon Muller‘s dinner two years ago and tasted some top class Rieslings and learned from the soft-spoken, charming Egon Muller IV. I’m glad that Mr. Egon Muller IV came back to Singapore and hosted another dinner to show us his Riesling from the 2010 vintage and also a Kab from 2004 and Spat from 1990 (special release from the cellar for this dinner).
I have only tasted a few 2010 so it is hard for me to say if this is a great vintage across the German region, but certainly one of the very great vintage for Egon Muller. The wines showed lovely purity, cleanliness, concentration and richness yet with amazing high but bright and ripe acidity and soft mineral for the right balance. Even the QBA is benefited in this vintage that offered incredible sap and weight. These wines will be really long live for sure.
Egon Muller is a remarkable estate in Saar, holding 16 hectares of vineyard and out of 8.5 hectares are situated in the famous Scharzhofberger vineyard.
Slate soil and low yield is the key to produce one of the greatest Rieslings in the world. This soil is well-drained which is necessary for the weather (raining) and easy to heat up during the day (weather is cool in Germany) hence the healthier grapes and better ripeness. Wines from Egon Muller is not only complex and delicious, but also boosted with finesse and elegance. Did I mention they can age almost forever?
More often than not the wines are still taste fresh and dense after few days, seems never fade!
“The quality of a wine is 100% made in the vineyard. In the cellar it is not possible to arrive even at 101% but ti is no small achievement to be able to bring the full potential of the grapes into the bottle.” – Favorite saying of the late Egon Muller III.
Great vineyard delivers great raw material and plus the magical touch of Egon Muller, great wines are produce here.
2010 Egon Müller Riesling QbA Scharzhof – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
- Opened 30mins in advanced. Some sulphur note that blows away after some aeration and revealed surprisingly expressive aromas of grape fruits, white peaches, slate and soft mineral at the background. Very lively and refreshing on the palate with amazing weight, tension and sweetness level for a QBA, this could be easily mistaken as Kabinett in a colder vintage. The zesty acidity giving a good balance to the sweetness with good sense of raciness and leaving a clean, juicy medium length finish with sweet grapefruits and chalky mineral aftertate. Delicious. 87-88+
2010 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
- Open 60mins in advanced. Broader and more serious on the nose compared to the QBA with lovely aromas of sweet lemon, grape fruits, pear and a touch of smokiness all wrapped with the elegant, seductive minerality and white floral scents. Lovely concentration of lemon, grapefruits, succulent on the intense palate with razor sharp focus and precision. The sweetness and acidity is well blended for the harmony and balance that giving the wine incredible sap and definition. I very much enjoy the purity and sappiness here. Long finish with remarkable tension and weight. The best Kabinett so far? 90-92+
2004 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
- Alcohol :: 8.5%
Opened for 75mins in advanced. Darker golden in the core with light green hue. It is always great to compare young and older Riesling from same producer. German Rieslings are so delicious with their lovely fruits when young that is hard to resist not to drink them young, hence it is very difficult to come across with aged German Rieslings in the market. This 7yrs old Kabinett has developed significant secondary note on both nose and palate, such as soft but expressive kerosene and smokiness with citrus, grapefruits and little touch of honey. The sweetness and primary fruits has mellowed down and revealed complex flavors and mineral on the palate. A little bit lean and smaller scale compared to the 2010 but still with great focus and tension. Medium length finished with earthy, almost nutty aftertaste. 88
2010 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese #4 – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
- Opened for 2hrs. Wow, this is so delicious, definitely a one of the best Spatlese I have ever tasted. Surprisingly expressive on both nose and palate. The complex aromas is high tone, intense, broad yet focus. The nose loaded with perfume yellow and white floral scents along with sweet peaches, lemon, pear, melon complex with deep chalky mineral, smoke and herbs. The super intense palate is stunningly rich and concentrated that delivered immense depth and sappiness, yet wonderfully delineated with great purity, complexity and precision. Needless to say, the tension and harmony here is absolutely top class. The insanely long finish just goes on and on, with mandarin peel and soft elegant mineral aftertaste. Drop dead delicious. This has great future and will develop better nuances and complexity effortlessly for over a decade or more. 93-95
1990 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese #25 – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
- Double decanted for 60mins. The initial funkiness right out of the bottle disappeared after double decanted. The high tone but soft Kerosene note dominated the matured bouquet. This is another reason why some people doesn’t like their Riesling being too aged as people is either hate or love this kind of aroma. However, I kinda like it and this showed the multi-faceted of Riesling. The primary sweetness has mostly subdued and revealed great complexity of mineral, kerosene, citrus fruits, crush stone, herbs and dried white flowers, so expressive and focus. The palate is almost bone dry now, only a little touch of sweet citrus lemon fruits that wrapped in a complex minerality package along with inner perfume of kerosene. Almost creamy mouth feel, with nut oil, orange peel bitterness and cheesy aftertaste that lingered at the medium length finish. Only thing to nail is the structured has mostly mellow down and lack a bit of tension to be really top outstanding. 90
2010 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #6 – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
- Alcohol :: 8%
Opened for 2.5hrs. The nose was painfully tight right out of the bottle but the palate is showing well, though a little bit restraint on the finish. The 2.5hrs of aeration certainly help, nose was far more expressive that loaded with tons of sweet peaches, dried apricot, lemon, a touch of Bortrytis spiciness and very refreshing still for such level of sweetness. Very deep and complex with huge chalky mineral, yellow flower at the background along with herbs, nut oil and honey. Fullish, expansive and almost explosive on the super intense palate that possess the weight of a BA and remained feather light on its feet. The wine flowed onto the palate with great depth, purity and detail layered. Wave after wave of sweet yellow fruits, honey, herbs, spices and almost oily mouth feel that immediately fill out the mouth together with tons of soft elegant mineral, bright acidity spine that formed this absolutely seductive, elegant Auslese. The length is incredible rich, long and persistent, most importantly, very clean and pure! This too has great future and will develop better nuances and complexity effortlessly for over 2decades or more. 94-96+