Masterclass – Domaine Faiveley with Master of Wine, Lisa Perotti-Brown (20101008)

Domaine Faiveley’s wines, often associates with high tannins, big structure and backward that is hard to approach when young has now came to a turning point in term of style and characteristic of their wines.

2006 onward is very important milestone for Domaine Faiveley as Francois Faiveley’s son, Erwan has taking over his father and fully control of the Domaine and its operations. They have hired former managing director of Bouchard Père et Fils, M. Bernard Hervet as the new CEO of Domaine Faiveley. Some big changed in operation and wine making have occurred thus the style of the Faiveley has changed.

The main changes:

  1. Sources and types of oak. Percentage of new oak has significantly reduced.
  2. Equipment upgrade – main purpose is to eliminating rough or coarse tannins
  3. Whole cluster fermentation has been experimented and slowly implementing to some of the wines from 2006 onwards.

The final goal is to eliminating the rough / coarse tannins and soft vinification and indeed, the wines are pretty approachable, though the high acid backbone is there for the aging capability. I have not tried many wines from Faiveley, but did have few excellent pre-2006 bottle that show it’s capability of longevity, excellent even after 24yrs in aged. Will include the TNs for this two wines as comparison with the wines that we had today.

Was lucky to join this masterclass as it was told that all seat has sold out within few hours after the mailer has out. Miss Lisa Perotti-Brown, the one and only Master of Wine in Singapore, was the speaker, has briefed us through what is Burgundy, the region and the wines as well as the profile of Domaine Faiveley and tasting together with us for the whole range of wines that present today.

The Whites

I have no idea why the Chablis Grand Cru was served 1st follow by the Mercurey and Puligny 1er. The Corton Charlie is the best in the range though the price is not necessary on-par with the quality.

  • 2008 Faiveley Chablis 1er Cru VaudésirFrance, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
    The aromas is still shy that only giving away hint of ripe fruits core with green apple and peppery spice that lay on the wet rock and mineral. Entry with high acid attack with sharp steely mouth feel, light weight with green apple, pear and citrus flavor that has slight creamy, quite alcoholic, burning finish. The temp for this wine is too warm. This has good richness, fresh, but rather simple for a Grand Cru Chablis. Too young? Disjointed? Not sure.
  • 2008 Faiveley Mercurey Clos RochetteFrance, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey
    Soft mineral nose with hint of smokiness, green herb with no sign of fruits that is also sharp, Sauvignon Blanc like palate with it’s grassy profile along with rubbery & cream custard finish. This is a mineral juice that has a hint of fruits. A Mercurey tasted like Sauvignon Blanc? Hmm… To me, this is not a well-made wine.
  • 2008 Faiveley Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
    At last, this is something that is more serious with it’s Puligny aromas thought is soft, but the slight creamy, lemony notes that showing off it’s Puligny origin. However, I was disappointed again with the sharp entry, high acid with relatively short, light finish with alcohol undertone. Actually this is rather clean, with its sappy lime and green apple flavor, however, the sharp, high acid just slide through the tongue like a very sharp knife which caused unpleasant tasting experience. Not sure if this is too young, but clearly is not what I prefer ffrom a Puligny 1er Cru.
  • 2007 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    Faiveley is quite famous for it’s Corton Charlie and given the disappointed results of 1st 3wines, I was really looking forward to try this especially this is from 2007 vintage that is a very good year for white burgundy. This is clearly better with it’s riper, broader dimension of aromas that offer mango, pear with peppery spices and almond nut. This too is sharp with high acid, but there is good ripe fruits to counterbalance it resulted in creamy, weighty mid palate which is clean, fresh with roasted herbs and huge mineral backbone, thought the spicy finishing is light, it is persistent and linger. This is a good wine but given the price tag, I must say I’m not agree the quality of this wine deserves such a high price.

The Reds from BeaunePommard

Highly expressive and fresh nose with red Pinots fruits, however, the palate is thin and least interesting.

  • 2007 Faiveley Pommard

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
    This is really nicely done on the nose with its expressively fresh aromas of fresh strawberry and raspberry dominant and added more depth with its earthy and slight animal. As with the white wine, the entry is also high acid and sharp. This is fruity, forward drinking wine that is quite pure and fine. The creamy finish shows hint of earthy tone.

  • 2006 Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands

    – France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru
    High tone of raspberry, grilled herbs, underbrush with red fruits that wrap by light alcoholic aromas. Sharp, high acid, high alcohol and rustic, rubbery finish. I have no idea why is the profile like this, for a Pinot….

  • 2006 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    Monopole. Rather expressive for a 2006 Corton that offer deep focus aromas of raspberry, underbrush, perfume floral with hint of wet animal fur. Tannic! This come across with green herbish along with earthy, woody note. The underlying richness and red cherry fruits are there, with fine-grained texture, spicy long with slight alcoholic finish. This has depth, some complexity, but not really a refine wine with class of monopole? A let down, too.

The Reds from Nuits

The best set and clearly a huge step up in term of quality and class compare to the red from Beaune. Fuees being my pick of the masterclass for its typical Chambolle that is highly expressive aromatic nose and display lots of power but remain graceful on the palate. Both Gevrey is very good too.

  • 2008 Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    This wine immediately grab my attention and attracted me which it’s sexy aromas, yes, SEXY was the immediate impression and this is absolutely a Chambolle. Wasn’t expect the nose has so much to offer and expressive for a mere 3yrs old wine. Deep and highly aromatic with pure cherry, violet with background of forest floor, with times, added more complexity with coffee notes, a real charmer by the elegant nose itself. The palate is quite ready to drink too though the structure is there, and the finely-grained tannin along with high, ripe acidity well-balance by pure, ripe cherry fruits that is intense, with good grip and showing good complexity already. Finished long and spicy. At last a nice btl that offer good finesse which others wines doesn’t offer. My pick in this event. (Why can’t they price this reasoanably??!!)

  • 2006 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    A bigger, broad shoulder and less expressive wine than the Chambolle. Perfume nose that display fresh strawberry, raspberry and orange with firm, pure acid core and added more depth with hint of fur and cloves. The high acid & tannic backbone make it less approachable, underbrush, wet animal fur and austere mouth feel leads to bitter, powerful finish with wood undertones.After some 30mins in the glass, this does quickly evolved and WOW! Silky smooth mouth feel, powerful, intense palate that is complex, structure, and show some finesse though there is still some rough edge pending some bottle age to polish. Very well made, and clearly there is not a big gap between the Latricieres Chambertin.

  • 2006 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
    This was double decanted for around 2hrs, and as expected as a grand cru, the nose is reluctant to show but the underlying material and depth of spice, underbrush and dark Pinot fruits was promising. A firm, refine wine that is well-balance with its pure fruits, high acid backbone and silky tannins with moderately complexity and good freshness. The structure is there and unlike the Cazetiers, this is approachable at first, and with time, the structure and tannins starts to kick in and hiding the fruits which resulted in tannic, powerful, austere finish. Still a baby and a handful 10yrs bottle age will certainly help to improve more.

Two pre-2006 Faiveley that I have had sometimes ago. An eye-opening exp that how well the wines from Faiveley can age, not to mention this is from a normal vintage :

  • 1996 Faiveley Clos Vougeot

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
    Alcohol : 13%
    Tasted Blind. This is quite similar aromatic profile with the Engel CDV but also more depth, and more age than with high tone of mineral background. The palate is not up to the par with the Nose though it is also very rich, good mid palate weight and sappiness but it is not as fresh and the fruits started to dry out which results in it slight alcoholic and austere, dry finish. Enjoyable now. Drink up.

  • 1976 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale

    – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
    Alcohol : Non stated
    Tasted Non-Blind. A clearly knock out mature burg bouquet that has high tone perfumy dried floral note which is soft and seductive with slight animal, underbrush, dried tea leaf with touch of soy, mushroom truffle and dried cherry fruits that is really complex and stunningly deep and fresh. The palate is also very fresh, but clearly at its plateau now as the structure is complete mellow down resulted in really silky smooth texture, good complete palate that is balance immensely with its acidity, sweetness and dry extract accompany with some soy source. The finish is rather shortish but it does improve a little, drinking surprisingly well and this has to be drank up in the next few years. A mature burg is always excellent, not to mention this is a normal vintage instead of a great.

2007 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne

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5 Responses to Masterclass – Domaine Faiveley with Master of Wine, Lisa Perotti-Brown (20101008)

  1. Amy says:

    @@, so impressive! I enjoy reading your notes, clear, details, and unaffected. Umm, CM is SEXY, I guess you like the girl like 良家婦女 style 🙂
    I learn a lot from your professional writing. Have you attended WSET class? How is it? It starts to introduce the classes here in Taiwan, but not sure it’s worthy of the high tuition or not.

    • Dave Chan says:

      Hi Amy, thanks for your generous comment. The note is not professional at all!
      Yeah, CM is Sexy and Elegant ^^ Don’t you agree?

      I didn’t take part of WSET class and I’m considering to take the advance level. I’m not sure it is worthy or not, maybe you wanna check out more detail on the course content from the provider? Which level you intended to take?

      • Amy says:

        There is no advance level in Taiwan. It seems I should fly over to Singapore for this classs. However, I should fulfill the intermediate class here firstly. As a wine lover, you’re in a heaven.

  2. Dave Chan says:

    Hi Amy, sorry for the late reply, I just came back from Holiday. To be honest, from what you posted on your blog, you’re in heaven 🙂

  3. Pingback: 1st post in 2011 – One and a half (20100116) | SimplyWines's Blog

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